Tom Atkins is a talented actor who has appeared on Broadway, in movies, on TV and as the star of the one-man hit play "The Chief."

But in the kitchen of their Peters home, his wife, Janis, is the star.

Janis and I have been friends for more than 20 years, and like most friends we have many similar interests. We're both at home in the kitchen but for different reasons -- she likes to cook and I like to bake.

My husband, Ray, and I (Ray and Tom were fraternity brothers at Duquesne University in the early 1960s) have enjoyed many excellent dinners at the Atkins home that Janis seems to prepare with ease. There are a lot of good cooks, but Janis is more than that -- she has a talent for turning a meal into a creative celebration.

Recently my husband and I were invited to the Atkins home for another dinner, Janis-style -- Tomato, Avocado and Spinach Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette, Sea Bass with Roasted Pepper Vinaigrette and Snap Peas sauteed in butter. Over the years it never occurred to me to ask Janis about her cooking talents. But as we sat around the dining room table having after-dinner coffee, it hit me: How did she become such a good cook and what made her take such an interest in cooking?

"When I was growing up in Greenfield, we were a typical meat-and-potatoes family, and I was not an adventurous eater," she said. "As a matter of fact, when I lived at home I never was particularly interested in cooking. And I was a very picky eater. For instance, I hated tomatoes. I would watch my sisters pick up a tomato and eat it like an apple, and I would think to myself, 'How can they do that?' "

While earning her degree in accounting, she got a job at the Brady Street Bridge Cafe (now Mallorca) on the South Side. "It was a great place to work. It was like a big happy family and everyone got along. During my breaks I would watch Chef Carl Dunkel prepare so many interesting dishes and that was it -- I was hooked on cooking. I was always asking Chef Dunkel and the other cooks questions about cooking. I think good cooks like to talk about their talents, which was certainly the case at the Brady. They were more than willing to share their knowledge, skills and recipes."

She says it was co-worker Mark Leighey who convinced her to be a more creative eater and cook. "Before I met Mark, I wouldn't eat foods like mushrooms, tomatoes or fish. Now the list of foods I don't enjoy is very short. We are still good friends, and we often visit Mark and his wife Susan in their Fredericksburg, Va., home. One of the highlights is preparing the meals with Mark. I know a lot of people might think it isn't a vacation if you have to cook, but for Mark and me. that's when we get a chance to catch up on everything that has happened since the last time we saw each other."

Tom added: "Mark and Janis plan menus ahead of time, and I know we are in for a succession of incredible meals ... with good wines, a few beers and great friendship."

Janis: "Another part of our dinners that I enjoy is that Tom and Mark's wife, Susan, do the cleanup."

"The Brady really was a great joint," Tom said, noting that that's where he met Janis in November 1985. "Chef Carl made a chicken liver pate with an onion and grenadine jam to die for. His entrees were all delicious. Chicken Etouffee, Shrimp Jean Lafitte, which Janis makes to this day, and Veal Normande were some of my favorites. He had touches of New Orleans in most of his dishes, and I like food with a kick."

Carl Dunkel now is an assistant professor in hospitality programs at Westmoreland County Community College, and he and Tom are still friends.

Jan explained how Tom had moved back to Pittsburgh from Los Angeles earlier in 1985 and moved into an apartment on the South Side. "The bartender, Fred Lehman, was interested in acting and recognized Tom from TV and movies, and they became friends. Tom would come into the restaurant and chat with everyone. After a while Tom and I became friends and then started dating. Our first date was on March 15, 1986. We went to see the Pittsburgh premiere of the movie 'Gung Ho' at the Byham Theater (Fulton Theater at the time) with 15 of my co-workers. Fred was an extra in the movie, so we had to see his big debut. I think he had one line."

Janis' on-the-job growth as a cook included learning the basics of food preparation -- again by asking questions and watching the cooks in the kitchen.

"I learned how to use different cooking techniques (braise, saute, grill, fry, steam, bake, etc.) and how to get the best results. Also, simple things like the proper knife to use depending on what you are chopping or cutting and how to smash and peel garlic, clarify butter and how to keep vegetables like snow peas or parsley in ice water in the refrigerator to keep them crisp and fresh. Also, have all the ingredients ready ahead of time. Just seeing how a busy restaurant kitchen uses advance preparation to help keep everything organized and flowing was an eye-opener for me.

"But by far the most beneficial to me was learning how to make very good basic stocks that I still use as a base for many of my sauces and recipes. I learned to trust your instincts about which ingredients work well together. It doesn't have to be complicated to be good. Change your menu according to the seasons of the year so you don't get bored. Use fresh herbs when possible; they are always better. In the fall/winter I like to make soups or hearty stews with crusty breads and meats or pastas with rich sauces. In the spring/summer I like a much lighter meal of fish, fresh vegetable and salad."

Because Janis works full time as an accountant at a community bank in the South Hills and Tom works full time as an actor -- "which means I'm at home more than I'm at work," he quips -- Tom prepares "a fair number of dinners. Like everyone else, there are a few dishes that are our favorites for everyday eating, so I make chili, pasta puttanesca, chicken fajitas, a chicken salad with fries on top and a warm balsamic vinegar green onion dressing, and anything on the grill like burgers, chicken or pork tenderloin."

Janis: "I can't tell you how much I appreciate coming home after work and he has dinner ready. It's great."

SEA BASS WITH ROASTED PEPPER VINAIGRETTE

PG tested

• 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and halved
• 6 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 red bell pepper
• 1 orange bell pepper
• 1 yellow bell pepper
• 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
• 2 tablespoons capers
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 4 sea bass fillets, about 1 inch thick
• Olive oil, about 3 tablespoons or more
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste

Set grill on high. Brush fennel bulb with some of the olive oil, wrap in foil. Rub peppers with oil (do not wrap in foil). Place fennel bulb and peppers on the grill. Turn peppers frequently to char evenly on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove fennel from grill; set aside. Remove peppers from grill and place in a tightly sealed paper bag for about 15 minutes. This will loosen the skins so they will peel off easily. Meanwhile remove foil from fennel bulb. Peel outer layer and cut into thin slices. Remove peppers from paper bag. Peel skins, remove tops and seeds. Cut into 1/4-inch strips. Whisk the remaining vinaigrette ingredients together in a bowl. Add the pepper strips and fennel slices. (Can be made a day ahead).

Brush or rub the sea bass filets with olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill over high heat directly on the grill or in a fish basket for about 10 minutes (depending on the thickness), turning once. Serve immediately topped with roasted pepper vinaigrette.

Serves 4.

-- Janis Atkins

TOMATO & AVOCADO SALAD WITH SPINACH

PG tested

• 4 medium-ripe plum tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch slices
• 2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, cut into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
• 12-ounce bag fresh baby spinach, rinsed and dried
• Champagne Vinaigrette (see below)

Place tomatoes, avocados and oregano in a bowl. Gently toss with 3 tablespoons of Champagne Vinaigrette. Arrange spinach on individual salad plates. Top with tomato and avocado mixture. Serve with remaining vinaigrette.

Serves 4.

CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE

PG tested

• 1/2 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
• 4 tablespoons Champagne Vinegar
• 1/2 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 cups olive oil

In a small bowl whisk together all ingredients except olive oil. Continue to whisk and slowly drizzle in the olive oil.

-- Janis Atkins

SHRIMP JEAN LAFITTE

PG tested

• 3 large bunches of green onions
• 3 cups white wine
• 1/3 cup fresh minced garlic (not jarred), about 13 to 14 large cloves
• 3 tablespoons sherry
• 24 jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined (keeping the tails intact)
• 1 1/2 to 2 cups milk
• 1 1/2 to 2 cups flour
• Vegetable oil for frying, 2 to 3 cups
• 1 stick (8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 8 slices
• Salt to taste
• Fresh lemon wedges for garnish
• Parsley for garnish, rinsed and dried
• Green onion and garlic reduction (below)

Combine green onions, wine, garlic and sherry in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat until all liquid is evaporated (approximately 1 hour or more). Set aside. (This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated.)

Dredge shrimp in a bowl of milk then in flour. Fry shrimp in a wok or deep fryer for just a few minutes, until lightly golden, do not overcook. Remove to a platter, cover with foil to keep warm. (You will need to cook the shrimp in separate batches.)

The sauce has to be made at the last minute because it may break apart if allowed to sit.

Combine butter and green onion and garlic reduction in a small saute pan. Whisk mixture constantly over a high flame to prevent the sauce from separating. As soon as the butter is melted and still opaque, the sauce is finished. This just takes a few minutes. If you cook it too long and the butter starts to separate, whisk in another tablespoon of butter. Add salt to taste.

Serve on a platter or arrange on individual plates. Place a spoonful of sauce over each shrimp, squeeze a little lemon over shrimp. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley and serve immediately.

Serves 6 with 4 shrimp per person. I like to serve this with a small filet mignon per person.

-- Janis Atkins

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